Retiro & Salamanca
Royal gardens meet golden-mile shopping.
Retiro Park was the private garden of the Spanish monarchy until 1868, when it was handed to the city. Madrileños have treated it as their living room ever since. On any given morning you will find runners on the paths, rowers on the lake, and retired men arguing about football near the bandstand.
This walk crosses the park from south to north, passing the Crystal Palace, the rose garden, and the monument to the fallen angel, before emerging into Salamanca — Madrid’s wealthiest neighborhood. The contrast is deliberate. One side is green and democratic. The other is marble and monied. Both are essential Madrid.
The park does not charge admission. Salamanca does, but only if you stop in the shops.
What you'll discover
·The Crystal Palace was built in 4 months for an exhibition of Philippine plants. It is still standing.
·A rose garden with 4,000 bushes that peak in May and nobody queues for.
·The fallen angel statue in Retiro — said to be the only public monument to the devil in the world.
·Salamanca was farmland until the 1870s. One man's speculation built an entire neighborhood.
·8 designer boutiques on one block of Calle Serrano. None of them existed 30 years ago.
·A hidden lake behind the Palacio de Velázquez where turtles outnumber tourists.
Before you go
Best time
Morning for Retiro, when runners and dog walkers own the paths. Salamanca is best mid-afternoon when the shops are open.
Getting there
Start at Retiro metro station (Line 2). The park entrance is 100 meters from the exit.
Duration
55 minutes if you stay on route. The park invites detours — budget at least 90 minutes.
Footwear
Park paths are gravel and paved. Comfortable walking shoes recommended.
€4.99
This walk. 30 days.
Or all 5 Madrid walks for €27.99
Open in app2 devices. One can be a friend's.
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