Malasaña & Chueca
Where the movida never really stopped.
Malasaña and Chueca sit side by side north of Gran Vía, and together they tell the story of Madrid’s reinvention. Malasaña was the heart of the movida — the explosion of art, music, and nightlife that followed Franco’s death. Chueca transformed from a neglected barrio into the center of LGBTQ+ life in Spain.
This walk moves between the two, tracing the streets where counterculture became mainstream. Vintage shops in old pharmacies, vermouth bars in former hardware stores, and a neighborhood energy that still feels like something is about to happen.
The buildings are the same as they were in 1980. Everything inside them has changed twice.
What you'll discover
·The pharmacy on Plaza del Dos de Mayo where a 17-year-old became a national hero in 1808.
·A record shop that survived the movida, the crash, and the internet.
·12 types of vermouth on tap in a bar the size of a living room.
·The building where Almodóvar shot his first film. It is now a vintage clothing store.
·Chueca's plaza was a no-go zone in the 1980s. Now it hosts Pride.
·A convent that still sells biscuits through a revolving wooden hatch.
Before you go
Best time
Late morning or early evening. Malasaña wakes up slowly and Chueca comes alive after 7pm.
Getting there
Start at Tribunal metro station (Lines 1, 10). You are already in Malasaña when you exit.
Duration
45 minutes walking. Plan for longer — there are too many good bars to maintain pace.
Footwear
Flat streets, no cobblestones to speak of. Anything comfortable.
€4.99
This walk. 30 days.
Or all 5 Madrid walks for €27.99
Open in app2 devices. One can be a friend's.
More in Madrid
Habsburg Madrid
The original Madrid, before the boulevards.
La Latina on Sunday
Flea markets, tapas, and the week's best people-watching.
Paseo del Arte
Three world-class museums. One boulevard.
Retiro & Salamanca
Royal gardens meet golden-mile shopping.