City of Arts & Sciences
The future, built in a drained riverbed.
Santiago Calatrava grew up in Valencia and then built the most divisive complex in the city’s history. The City of Arts and Sciences rises from the drained Turia riverbed like a collection of bleached bones — an opera house, an aquarium, a planetarium, and a science museum, all in white concrete and steel.
Locals either love it or resent the cost. This walk takes you through the complex without taking sides, explaining what each building does, what it was supposed to do, and why the gap between the two matters. The architecture is extraordinary regardless of your opinion on the budget.
The reflecting pools are shallow enough to wade in. On hot days, children do.
What you'll discover
·Calatrava's buildings cost three times the original budget. Valencia is still arguing about it.
·The Hemisfèric is shaped like a human eye. At night, the reflection in the pool completes the illusion.
·L'Oceanogràfic is the largest aquarium in Europe. The building looks like a lily pad from above.
·4 bridges cross the complex, each by a different architect. Only one is by Calatrava.
·The Palau de les Arts took 9 years to build. The outer shell weighs more than the Eiffel Tower.
·A running path circles the entire complex. Locals use it at dawn before the tourists arrive.
Before you go
Best time
Late afternoon for the best light on the white structures. Sunset turns the reflecting pools into mirrors.
Getting there
Bus 35 from the city center stops at the main entrance. Or walk south through the Turia Gardens — it is the better approach.
Duration
50 minutes for the exterior walk. Add hours if you visit the museums and aquarium.
Footwear
Flat, paved surfaces throughout. Any comfortable shoes work.
€3.99
This walk. 30 days.
Or all 4 Valencia walks for €18.99
Open in app2 devices. One can be a friend's.